Burgenland, Austria
Boris Kovacic and his wife Andrea spent years as microbiologists/geneticists, delving into stem cell research with a focus on tumor studies. However, alongside their dedication to science, they nurtured a growing passion for natural wine, which began as a hobby and gradually became an integral part of their life.
In 2021, Boris made a bold decision: he left his research career to become a full-time vintner in Sankt Margarethen, a picturesque village in the Burgenland region of Austria. Winemaking in this region has deep historical roots, with evidence of viticulture dating back thousands of years. The area has a unique climate, influenced by a nearby lake, the Neusiedlersee. The lake moderates the dry Pannonian climate, cooling the air in the summer and storing warmth during the winter, creating ideal conditions for viticulture. Another unique characteristic is the remarkable diversity of soils, ranging from limestone to schist, including mica schist and quartz rocks, alongside clayey and sandy soils.
Boris approaches winemaking with the same love, dedication, scientific precision, and experimental mindset that once defined his research. In his new craft, he places a strong emphasis on natural processes, believing that true quality and character in wine come from respecting what nature provides.
For Boris, it’s essential to embrace the natural yeasts that grow on the grapes themselves. He advocates for a winemaking approach that avoids any artificial additives, focusing instead on what the combination of grapes from diverse soils with assistance from natural yeasts, can achieve on its own.
He prioritizes enhancing the diversity of microorganisms in the soil and on the vines, which he believes leads to a natural vibrancy and complexity in the wine’s flavor. As the vineyard grows, it increasingly becomes a true family business, with each member playing a vital role in shaping its future.
Each wine is named after old regional colloquial expressions, preserving these cultural treasures and keeping the memory of the local dialect alive. Boris’s approach is not just about producing wine, but about cultivating a deeper connection with the land, honoring the traditions of the past while pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in the future.
